Budapest

Five days in the Hungarian capital

By Hilton Luke

February 10^th, 2024

Budapest

Budapest, the vibrant capital of Hungary, is a photographer's dream when it comes to capturing architectural masterpieces. Standing on the banks of the Danube River, the city is divided into Buda and Pest, woven together by a tapestry of historical and modern bridges, each with its own character and story to tell.

From the very first glance, the grandeur of the Hungarian Parliament Building demands attention. Its Gothic Revival facade, adorned with statues and intricate stonework, glows majestically during sunset, offering a play of warm hues and deepening shadows that can capture the essence of this historic city.

Crossing the Danube, the Chain Bridge serves as a regal gateway to either side of the city. Photographs of this suspension bridge, especially at night, present a blend of grace and strength, with the illuminated city as its backdrop. The lion statues guarding each end of the bridge provide a proud and exquisite detail that adds to the richness of the compositions.

Ascending the hilly Buda side, the Fisherman's Bastion presents a fairy-tale like vantage point. The white turrets and arches contrast beautifully with the deep blue sky, especially during the golden hour. The panoramic views of Pest from this location are unparalleled, allowing photographers to frame the cityscape within the geometric beauty of the Bastion's windows.

Shoes on the Danube Bank

The Shoes on the Danube Bank is a poignant and evocative memorial in Budapest, Hungary, which serves as a stirring tribute to the lives lost during the Holocaust. Situated along the east bank of the Danube River near the Hungarian Parliament, the memorial was created by film director Can Togay and sculptor Gyula Pauer and unveiled to the public on April 16, 2005.

This powerful installation consists of 60 pairs of 1940s-style shoes, cast in iron and intentionally left rusted to symbolize the decay of memory over time. The shoes represent the footwear of Jewish victims who were ordered to remove their shoes before being executed by the fascist Arrow Cross militiamen during World War II. The victims were shot at the river's edge, their bodies swept away by the currents, leaving only their shoes behind.

As visitors walk along the path and observe the collection of shoes—ranging from men's work boots to women's heels, and even the tiny shoes of children—they are invited into a silent dialogue with history. Each pair tells the unspeakable story of its owner, a personal echo of the larger atrocity, as the shoes serve as stand-ins for the individuals who once wore them.

The placement of the Shoes on the Danube Bank is significant; the Danube, often considered a lifeline and symbol of unity for the nations it traverses, became a site of tragedy. The memorial's creators chose this site to ensure that the casual passerby, as well as the intentional visitor, cannot ignore the echoes of the past. It insists on both a personal and collective remembrance.

Visitors to the memorial often leave candles, flowers, or notes to pay their respects, and it has become an integral part of the city’s historical fabric. The location not only offers a moment of reflection but also a stark reminder of the horrors of war and persecution, ensuring that such atrocities are neither forgotten nor repeated.

The Shoes on the Danube serve as more than just a static display; they are an active agent of memory, urging society to bear witness to history and to uphold the values of tolerance and humanity. Their solemn presence on the riverbank of Budapest continues to resonate with people from around the world, uniting them in a moment of contemplation and honouring the memories of those lost to senseless hatred and violence.

Vajdahunyad Castle

Tucked away in the lush surrounds of City Park in Budapest, Hungary, Vajdahunyad Castle emerges like a page from a fairy tale. Constructed at the turn of the 20th century, the castle embodies an enchanting melange of architectural styles, including Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque, a testament to the rich tapestry of Hungarian history.

Vajdahunyad Castle's inception occurred as part of the Millennial Exhibition of 1896, which celebrated a thousand years of Hungarian statehood. Initially built from cardboard and wood by architect Ignác Alpár, the structure was meant to be a temporary exhibit. However, the castle's overwhelming popularity spurred its reconstruction in the more durable stone and brick, making it a permanent fixture in the cityscape by 1908.

What sets Vajdahunyad Castle apart is its design, which is a pastiche of several iconic buildings from across the Kingdom of Hungary, encapsulating the nation's architectural evolution. The castle borrows elements from landmarks such as the Hunyad Castle in Transylvania (now in Romania), which is reflected in its name—'Vajdahunyad' being the Hungarian form of 'Hunyad'.

Upon entering the castle grounds, one is struck by the varied facades. The Romanesque section, inspired by the Abbey of Jak, hosts a robust gate and the Chapel of Ják, where visitors can witness copies of medieval tombstones. Moving to the Gothic section, one finds the replica of the Hunyad Castle tower, an ethereal presence that seems lifted from medieval legend.

The Renaissance influence shines in the details of the windows and balconies that ornament the castle's interior courtyard, while the Baroque section contains the castle's residential areas, now home to the Museum of Hungarian Agriculture—the largest of its kind in Europe. The museum provides an in-depth look at Hungarian rural life, viticulture, and farming through a collection sprawled over multiple floors.

The castle is not merely an architectural curiosity; it is a cultural hub as well. It plays host to various events and fairs throughout the year, including a Christmas market and a summertime festival featuring medieval reenactments.

Beyond its walls, the castle's presence is augmented by the tranquil boating lake that encircles it, which, come winter, transforms into a charming ice rink. The surrounding park, with its paths weaving among trees and statues, invites locals and tourists alike to linger and enjoy the serene environment.

Vajdahunyad Castle, with its idyllic setting and eclectic design, echoes the narrative of a nation with a multifaceted heritage. It stands as a symbolic bridge through time, connecting visitors with the architectural grandeur of Hungary's past, and continues to enchant with its storybook allure. Whether bathed in sunlight or adorned with snowflakes, the castle invites countless admirers to explore its historic grandeur and revel in its timeless charm.